Composting, Flowers, Gardening, Grow Your Own, How To, Planting, Plants,, Watering, Wildlife


There is no doubt that roses are one of the most popular flowers to grow in Britain. In fact, so many are planted each year that if you set them out as a single row these plants would circle the equator! With the proper care and maintenance you can expect your rose to last for at least 20 years. However, many roses fail to thrive and a lot of that is due to improper planting and care. There are several elements to consider before attempting to plant a rose in your garden and this step-by-step guide should help you to navigate the pitfalls ensuring your rose is a success!


Planting Position 

Choosing the correct position for planting your rose is crucial. If it is not in a suitable spot it will not thrive. Plenty of sun is needed for your rose to grow, slight shade in the afternoon is good but not continuous shade. Your rose needs shelter from the cold winds. A nearby hedge or fence is good but should not be too close that it shades the bush. Your rose will need good drainage as it will not grow in waterlogged soil.

 Soil Conditions 

When planting your rose it is important that the soil is suitable. Ideally the soil should be medium loam, slightly acid with a PH of 6.0-6.5 and reasonably rich in plant foods and humus. Roses cannot thrive if the soil conditions are poor. Roses should be planted from Late October to March and the ground should not be waterlogged or frozen.

Preparing the Rose 

Cut off any leaves, hips or buds that may still be present. If the stems are shrivelled place all of the bush in water for several hours. Cut off any decayed or thin shoots before planting. Plunge roots into a bucket of water if they seem dry. It is crucial that the roots do not dry out before planting and make sure they remain covered until you are ready to set the bush in the planting hole. Cut back any long or damaged roots to about 30cm.

Planting the Rose 

Mark out planting stations to make sure your rose bush has enough space. There should be a distance of about a metre between each plant. When planting make sure that the bud union is about 2-3cm below the surface.

Caring and Maintenance


Roses benefit from having a layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plants as it reduces weeds, keeps soil moist in summer, improves soil structure, reduces black spots and some mulching material provides plant foods. Some suitable materials used for mulching include moist peat, shredded bark, well rotted manure, good garden compost and leaf mould. Prepare the soil surface for mulching by clearing away debris, dead leaves and weeds. Water the soil surface if it is dry. Spread a 5-7cm layer around the rose. Mulching reduces the need for watering and hoeing but does not replace the need for good feeding.


Roses have a deep-rooting habit meaning that the watering of established plants is not crucial in some seasons. However, some roses need watering after a few days of dry weather. For example, newly planted roses, climbers growing against walls and roses planted in sandy soils. All roses will need plenty of water in a period of drought in spring and summer. When watering, use about 5 litres of water for each bush or standard rose and 15 litres for a climber.


The main purpose of hoeing is to keep down weeds that are not smothered by mulching. Hoeing needs to be done frequently to make sure that the underground parts of the weeds are starved. Do not hoe any deeper than 2-3cm below the surface or the roots could be damaged.


Roses are perhaps the most popular flower for cutting and using as decoration. To make sure you don’t weaken the rose bush, do not take more than one third of the flowering stem with the flower. Cut just above an outward facing bud. Do not cut struggling or newly planted roses.  


Roses make heavy demands on plant food reserves in soil. If one or more vital elements run short your rose will not thrive. Feed your rose every year using a proprietary compound fertiliser containing nitrogen, phosphates and potash. You can use powder or granular fertiliser, liquid fertilisers or foliar feeding.


It is important to regularly remove dead blooms. Remove the whole truss when the flowers have faded. Cut the stem just above the second or third leaf down. This will help the rose conserve energy.


Roses do not produce shoots that increase in size steadily each year. Therefore, if they are not pruned the rose becomes a mass of live and dead wood. The purpose of pruning is to get rid of the dead wood each year and encourage the regular development of strong and healthy stems. For more details click here.


Jorge, Plants, Trees

As a species, the underrated crabapple has many great features. Its fruit is long lasting and can survive well into winter, providing a source of nutrients for birds and welcome colour in the garden. Like Malus in general, crabapples are a great source of pectin and can be used to create a range of culinary delights; and are often used as a substitute for pectin products, saving unnecessary expenditure and increasing self-sustainability. Like its wonderful blossom, its fruit is profuse it can be harvested over a long period, providing abundant nutrients for the family.

The blossom is often fragrant and constitutes a worthy competitor to cherry blossom with numerous tones available. Constituting great pollinators, they are the perfect addition to your apple orchard, increasing cropping and enhancing taste. Its deep roots allow one to maintain the perfect lawn and as a native species, they are hardy and great for wildlife. Finally, they are versatile and suitable for all but well drained soils and will often thrive as part of a bed.

Primrose Crabapples A-Z

Malus ‘Butterball’

Originating from North America, the Butterball is among the best crabapples for autumn colour, producing an abundance of yellow fruits. Great for cottage planting schemes, this small tree slots well into any bed and produces pink-blushed white flowers come spring.

Malus ‘Evereste’

An offspring of no fewer than four cultivars, the tree was developed over a long time span, first in the United States and later in France when it was completed by the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique in 1977. Not actually named after Mount Everest, its name is a play on words with evereste signaling the eve (apples) reste (rest) on the tree all winter. The tree is known for its disease resistance and is immune to fire blight, apple scab and powdery mildew. Profuse, the tree produces white flowers and orange fruit with streaks of red.

Malus floribunda ‘Japanese Crabapple’

Highly popular and deservedly so, the tree is great for form and flower, producing a dense rounded canopy with fragrant deep pink flowers emerging from deep red buds, which turn white over time. The fruits can vary from nursery to nursery and are sometimes red, but often yellow. First introduced from Japan in the 1860s, the variety is naturally resistant to apple scab and its gene has been spliced into many cultivated varieties.

Malus ‘John Downie’

Named after a Scottish nurseryman, this popular crabapple is notable for its gorgeous fruit, great in both taste and appearance. Perfect for crabapple jelly, its fruit is large and red-yellow in colour, while its single-flower blossom is white.

Malus ‘Montreal Beauty’

Perfect for small gardens, Montreal Beauty is notable for its large white flowers, backdropped by crisp green leaves.

Malus ‘Pink Perfection’

Pink Perfection is one of the few crabapples with double-flowers and henceforth has more petals than most cultivars. Emerging from pink buds, its flowers are white and are intricately clustered as if arranged by a florist.

Malus pumila ‘Royalty’

The Royalty is notable for its bronze-leaved foliage and dark purple blossom. It was developed from the Malus ‘Niedzwetzkyana’, a cultivar from central Asia from which all bronze-leaved and purple-flowering crabapples derive. Its fruitlets are deep red and unsuitable for culinary use.

Malus ‘Sun Rival’

Weeping in habit, this small tree forms an unusual umbrella shape and has distinctive cascades of white flowers.

Malus x atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’

A fantastic ornamental, Gorgeous creates an array of colours throughout the seasons starting with its white flower, emerging from pink buds. Next come crimson fruit in great numbers that are highly suitable for jelly. And finally, unlike other crabapples, its leaves turn yellow and orange come autumn.

Malus x moerlandsii ‘Liset’

If you love intense colours, the Liset is for you with its deep reddish-pink flowers and small cherry-like fruits, completed by dark-green foliage.

Malus x moerlandsii ‘Profusion’

A fantastic tree for year round colour, the Profusion’s leaves first start coppery red, before turning dark green when mature and then bronze come autumn. Its flowers are dainty with long elliptic petals, dainty in appearance, and long white stamens with yellow tops. Rounding off the year are its purple fruits, which are unsuitable for culinary use, but great for bees.

Malus x purpurea ‘Neville Copeman’

Heavy cropping, high in pectin, the Neville Copeman’s plum-like fruit is sometimes eaten fresh, but be warned it’s sour! It is a great pollinator and very popular with bees. Its foliage is purple-flushed and blossom two-tone pink.

Malus x robusta ‘Red Sentinel’

Regardless of weather, the red sentinel’s red fruit can last all the way to Christmas and longer, constituting a fantastic source of colour and nutrients for birds. Shapely, the tree constitutes an ideal center-piece and come spring is covered in numerous fragrant white blossom.

Malus x zumi ‘Golden Hornet’

An offspring of the Malus prunifolia rinki, the Hornet was first raised in the UK in 1949. Its fruit is high pectin and is henceforth useable as a source of pectin and great for jams. A great pollinator with long lasting pink white blossom, the tree can be commonly viewed at the end of rows of apple trees in commercial orchards. Profuse in bloom and fruit, the Hornet creates great colour throughout the year with its leaves turning yellow come autumn.

Jorge at PrimroseJorge works in the Primrose marketing team. He is an avid reader, although struggles to stick to one topic!

His ideal afternoon would involve a long walk, before settling down for scones.

Jorge is a journeyman gardener with experience in growing crops.

See all of Jorge’s posts.

Jorge, Plants, Trees

Wild cherry trees are known as Yama Zakura while ornamental garden cultivars are known as Sato Zakura. The most common in Japan is Prunus x yedoensis, which is viewed as the original Sato Zakura. In the UK, blossom is seen as a sign of Spring, providing the feeling that you’ve beaten winter with the worst now behind you. In Japan, blossom’s fleeting nature is viewed to represent the transience of all things, especially life itself. This is celebrated with the custom hanami in which Japanese picnic under the blossom.

In the UK, cherry blossoms tend to flower in April, although it is dependent on the location with cherry trees as far flung as the Orkneys and Scillys. Blossom is extremely fragile and heavy rain can destroy flowers, although frost can be deadly, leaving them vulnerable to disease. Interestingly, a tree’s blossom output is dependent on the conditions in Autumn. It is in this period that the tree transfers sugars from the its leaves to its stems, as to form buds over the winter. Many trees require periods of frost to break its dormancy and unseasonal weather can upset flowering times. This is particularly the case for non-native trees, which include many cherry trees.  

Today, there are numerous cherry trees available to purchase including historical Japanese varieties and more recently developed cultivars, some originating from the UK. Newer varieties have sought to increase blossom output, as well as create stunning new colours and colour combinations. Also, important are the development of dwarf varieties that allow beautiful blossom in the smallest of spaces. Varieties differ in other ways such as weeping, whose branches and leaves droop downwards, evergreen, fragrant, columnar or fastigiate and early or late flowering.

Fascinatingly, cherry blossom can have between 5 and 300 petals and are divided into four groups: single (5), semi-double (5-10), double (25-50) and chrysanthemum (100+). Although, there can be variation in the number of petals even on the same tree. As a rule as the number of petals increase, the number of stamens decrease. A blossom’s colour is rarely constant and will get lighter with age, and can be affected by the weather. Sometimes, there can be two colours of petals on the same tree. This occurs when a cultivar is grafted onto another’s rootstock, which continues growing above.

In the UK, there are two native species – the Prunus avium and Prunus padus. Like all cherry trees, they can be identified with buds at the end of twigs and smooth bark with rough lines, known as lenticels, running round the tree. In spring, they both produce white flowers, the former in bunches, the latter in long spikes that branch off a central stalk.

Many Prunus are known by their original japanese names. Here are a few common phrases:

  • beni – pink
  • hana – flower
  • kiku – chrysanthemum-flowered
  • nioi – scented
  • shidare – weeping
  • yae – double-flowered
  • Sakura or zakura – cherry

Others go by their scientific latin name, which is used to denote a plant’s variety. A variety is always put in lower case and italicised and will always have the same unique characteristics of the parent plant. Sometimes an x is placed before variety as in the case of Prunus x incam. This denotes it’s a hybrid. In many cases, the name is a combination of the two varieties that produced it and are not latin words. The example in question is a mix of the incisa and campanulata.

The genus of all cherry trees is Prunus, which means plum in latin. Genus is used to group plants together with similar characteristics. Not all Prunus are cherry trees as the group includes many more trees and shrubs including plums (quelle surprise), peaches, nectarines, apricots and almonds.

Separately, some trees go by their cultivar, which are put in single quotation marks and often capitalised. Cultivar simply means cultivated variety and refers to a tree selected for a specific characteristic. Unlike varieties cultivars can vary with different nurseries selling slightly different trees. Within nurseries, consistency is ensured through propagation via vegetative cuttings i.e. cloning. Now without further ado, here are some translations of their latin names.

  • serrula or serrulata – little saw. This refers to the shape of its leaves.
  • Pendula Rubra – hanging red. Self-explanatory.
  • cerasifera – cherry fruit. This refers to the edible fruit, ripening from late-July to September.
  • padus – thread. I presume this refers to the trees slender racemes.
  • subhirtella – rough-beneath. This refers to the texture of its leaves.
  • Autumnalis Rosea – autumn rose. This refers to the date of flowering and colour of flower.
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Primrose Cherry Trees A-Z

Prunus ‘Accolade’

Originating from Surrey in the 1950s, the accolade gets its name from the ceremony used to confer knighthood by the tapping of the flat side of a sword on the shoulder. A cross between the sargentii and x subhirtella, the tree produces pink semi-double flowers that fade to pale pink and produces great colour in Autumn. The accolade is one of the earliest flowering cherries in both meanings of the term, blooming at the beginning of April and flowering abundantly early in its life.

Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ ‘Lombardy Cherry’

Meaning ‘river of the sky’ or ‘milky way galaxy’, the amanogawa was introduced to Europe in 1916 by Ernest Wilson, a prolific plant collector. The cultivar dates back to at least 1886 as it is listed as planted along the Arakawa River, Tokyo. An offspring of the serrulata, the tree is notable for its upright form and fragrant semi-double shell-pink flowers. Hence its English name the ‘Lombardy Cherry’.

Prunus ‘Kiku-shidare-zakura’ ‘Cheal’s Weeping Cherry’

Known since at least the 19th century, this Japanese cultivar was introduced to Europe in 1915. Meaning ‘weeping chrysanthemum’, its blossom is sensational with hundreds of petals per flower all in brilliant pink. Densely clustered, the blousy profusion resembles a stick of candyfloss.

Prunus ‘Shizuka Cherry’ ‘Fragrant Cloud’

Originating from Japan, the shizuka is part of a special collection of cherries known as the Matsumae collection cultivated by Mr Matasochi Asari beginning in the 1960s. Located on Hokkaido, Matsumae was the ideal location for hybridisation with a climate akin to Western Europe. Asari was integral in maintaining the first park designed to display examples of cherry trees and raised a whopping 105 cultivars, of which many have still not been introduced to Europe. Due to his work, he has been given the honorary title Sakura Mori – protector of cherry trees.  

Shizuka simply means ‘fragrant cloud’, hence its other name. The tree is upright with large clusters of bright white semi-double flowers that fade to pink. Fragrant, its leaves are first green before turning golden orange in autumn.

Prunus ‘Shirofugen’

The shirofugen helps mark the end of the cherry blossom season, finally blooming in late May or early June. Its flowers begin large and white, before turning purple-red and scattering. Left unchecked, the tree will end up wider than it is high, forming a vase shape. The tree has been cultivated since at least the 16th century in Japan, where it is known as the Fugenzo, meaning the ‘Elephant of Fugen’. Fugen is a Buddhist saint, who is often represented as a white elephant with six tusks, the tusks representing overcoming the six senses and the elephant the power of Buddhism to overcome all obstacles. It was again brought over by Ernest Wilson, this time in 1916.

Prunus ‘Shogetsu Cherry’

Meaning ‘moonlight on the pine trees’, the shogetsu is absolutely breathtaking with its cascading clusters of pink-tinged white double flowers, which resemble ballerinas petticoats. Wider than it is tall, the tree is known by multiple names (Blushing Bride and Oku Miyako) due to misidentification. The tree even confused the preeminent cherry tree expert Collingwood “Cherry” Ingram.

Prunus ‘Tai-haku’ ‘Great White Cherry’

Well known from historical records and artwork, the tai-haku was once thought lost until discovered by chance in the a Sussex garden by none other than Collingwood Ingram and all modern examples descended from this single specimen. With Tai-Haku meaning ‘big white flowers, the tree lives up to its name with possibly the biggest flowers of any cultivar. The tree is distinctive for its flat top and is notably wider than tall.

Prunus ‘Umineko’

Meaning ‘white-tailed sea-eagle’, the umineko is a cross between an Oshima and Fuji and was raised by Collingwood Ingram, an early authority on flowering cherries, in the 1920s. An almost identical cross, named ‘Snow Goose’ was created by Mr Doorenbos of the Netherlands. Resembling stalked umbels, the cultivar produces closely bunched single white flowers with pink stamens. The tree will produce a fiery display come autumn with a profusion of orange, red and purple.

Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’

Preferred by Monty Don to other cultivars, the nigra was commonly planted in Britain as a street tree in the post-war period and was first introduced in the early 20th century. The tree is distinctive for its small very dark leaves and will often produce juicy plums. Its single flowers are pale pink with deep pink buds and long stamens.

Prunus cerasifera ‘Pissardii’

Originally introduced to France from Persia by one M. Pissard back in 1880, the pissardi is absoutely stunning with pink buds opening to gorgeous white petals, contrasted with dark stems. The flowers are followed by red fruits in Autumn, which are great for making into jams.

Prunus incisa ‘Fuji Cherry’ ‘The Bride’

Commonly gifted as a wedding present, ‘The Bride’ possesses large single white flowers with bright red stamens. Profuse, the tree can produce huge blooms of blossom. As a Fuji cultivar, it is extremely hardy and versatile, flourishing in all but the harshest soils.

Prunus padus ‘Pandora’

Native to the UK, the padus is of great value to wildlife, providing an early source of nectar for pollinating insects and fruit for many birds and mammals. The Pandora is distinctive for pale pink single flowers and green leaves. Tall for an ornamental, the tree can reach 10 meters high.

Prunus pendula ‘Pendula Rubra’

A classic Japanese cherry, the rubra will produce cascades of carmine pink single flowers even before the emergence of its leaves. Weeping and very small, the tree is perfect small gardens, with a height and spread rarely beyond 4 metres.

Prunus sargentii ‘Sargent’s Cherry’

Native to Korea, Japan and the Russian island of Sakhalin, the sargentii gets its name from Charles Sargent, the former director of Boston’s Arnold Arboretum, who introduced the tree circa 1890. The tree is notable for its huge blooms of rosy pink flowers and is one of the first to colour up come Autumn, its leaves turning a stunning crimson.

Prunus serrula ‘Tibetan Cherry’

Sometimes referred to as the mahogany-barked cherry, this Prunus is distinctive for its beautiful coppery-brown bark. It was brought over to Britain in 1908, by British plant collector extraordinaire Ernest ‘Chinese’ Wilson, who introduced over 2,000 species, of which 60 bear his name. The plant produces small white flowers with long white yellow-topped stamens.

Prunus serrulata ‘Kanzan’

Meaning ‘near mountains’ or ‘mountain border’, the kanzan is the most widely-grown cherry tree cultivar in the UK, in part because it is both fast-growing and easy to grow. It is also beautiful with long stalked bunches of pink double flowers, contrasted with coppery bronze leaves. Left unchecked, the tree will grow wider than it is tall with long arching branches.

Prunus serrulata ‘Pink Perfection’

An offspring of the Kanzan, the pink perfection retains many of its qualities, but is suitable for small gardens. First raised in Britain, the pink perfection was first grown commercially in the 1930s and is distinctive for its dark pink buds opening to pale pink flowers, clustered in classic cherry blossom style.

Prunus serrulata ‘Royal Burgundy’

An offspring of the Prunus kanzan, this young cultivar was introduced in the 1990s and possesses the same large, dark pink double flowers but with attractive dark purple leaves. Interestingly, the leaves appear purple due to a high concentration of anthocyanin that masks chlorophyll. Anthocyanin is a pigment that primarily reflects red and purple light, but absorbs green light. Chlorophyll by contrast primarily reflects green light. Thus the kanzan’s leaves appears green, the Burgundy’s purple.

Prunus x incam ‘Okame’ ‘Okame Cherry’

A cross between the campanulatus and incisa, the tree was first hybridised by Collingwood Ingram in the 1940s. An early flowerer, the okame will produce a multitude of single pink blooms enclosed in carmine calyces, producing outstanding colour in the awakening landscape of March.

Prunus x persicoides ‘Spring Glow’

Developed at the start of the 20th century in Australia, the tree is distinctive for quaint five-petaled pink flowers. A good choice for those wishing to maintain colour in the summer months, its leaves turning an attractive copper red colour after flowering. Bizarrely the tree is often listed as a x persicoides, which would make it a cross between a peach and almond, but bears little resemblance to either.

Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ ‘Rosebud Cherry’

This prunus really does bloom in autumn and continues to flower intermediately all the way to March with small semi-double rosy pink blossom. It’s name is extremely apt as even its leaves turn a deep red come fall. A hybrid of the Fuji and Japanese Weeping Cherry, the cultivar was first imported to Europe in 1904 and has been known since at least the 19th century. It’s old Japanese name is ‘Jagatsu-zakura’ meaning ‘October cherry’ and it’s Latin name subhirtella can be broken down to ‘sub’ beneath and ‘hirtus’ rough, referring to the rough underside of its leaves. Understated and elegant, the variety has the additional advantage of being longer lived than its ornamental cousins.

Prunus x yedoensis ‘Yoshino Cherry’ ‘Ivensii’

The yoshino is one of the most popular cherry trees in Japan and is grown all across the country. The oldest, located in Hirosaki Park, Hirosaki, was planted all the way back in 1882 and is overlooked by the stunning 17th century Hirosaki castle. Almond scented, the tree is a weeping variety with long slender branches, which produce cascades of small white flowers. It is a cross between the Oshima cherry and Prunus subhirtella ‘Rosea’.

Jorge at PrimroseJorge works in the Primrose marketing team. He is an avid reader, although struggles to stick to one topic!

His ideal afternoon would involve a long walk, before settling down for scones.

Jorge is a journeyman gardener with experience in growing crops.

See all of Jorge’s posts.

Jorge, Plants, Trees

Pollination is important as without it trees will not produce fruit. Most trees require insects to transfer pollen between male (anthers) and female structures (stigma), ensuring fertilisation. Some trees, however, can self-fertilise. Without fertilisation, trees would be unable to propagate and the production of seeds and fruit would be useless. In the case of cherry trees, some are self-fertile and others are self-sterile, depending on the variety.

Cherry trees require another variety flowering at the same time to ensure fertilisation. They are henceforth put into flowering groups from 1 (very early) to 5 (very late). A cherry tree can be partnered with another in a group that is plus or minus 1 (+-1) its own group. To make matters more complex, even if some varieties have their flowers open at the same time they may not pollinate. They are henceforth put into groups (from A-O). Cherry trees thus require another tree in the same group and within plus or minus 1 flowering groups.

Thankfully, this is where universal donors come in that will pollinate any cherry tree within plus or minus 1 flowering group. We henceforth recommend, you pair one of these fertile varieties with another. As previously mentioned, some cherry trees are self-fertile and do not need to be paired with another. However, they do benefit from cross-fertilisation, so for heavier crops we recommend pairing.

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Another factor you need to consider is the date of the last frost in your location. Frost can be extremely damaging to blossoms and will reduce your crop. It is henceforth important to choose trees in the latter flowering groups if you have a late last frost. Your locations date can be found using this resource online. It should also be noted that bad weather such as rain and wind will prevent pollinating insects from visiting your blossoms and could reduce your crops.  

It is important to note that cherry blossom trees will not fertilise edible cherry trees, although acid cherries will. As cherry trees are somewhat common, it is possible that another tree could fertilise your own tree. As bees forage widely, a tree within 30m could fertilise one of your own, although it is simpler to plant another within the immediate vicinity. If you believe pollination has been disrupted, you can pollinate yourself by using a paintbrush and transferring pollen from one plant to another.

So why do growers bother with multiple varieties and not just choose a self-pollinator? Firstly, just like apples, different varieties produce different tastes. And secondly, growing multiple varieties allows you to ensure a steady supply of cherries throughout the warmer months. Lastly, some varieties have preferable traits such as resistance to cracking, larger crop, larger size and others are edible right off the bat, requiring no cooking.

As a rule, acid cherries are predominantly self-fertile, while sweet cherries require are self-sterile. Now without further ado, here is a quick overview of the different varieties characteristics.

Universal Donors

  • Celeste: Large red/black cherries. Naturally compact and great for patio.
  • Lapins: Red and mild tasting. Highly productive and vigorous.
  • May Duke: Tangy versatile fruit, great for eating fresh and making jams.
  • Merchant: Good flavour. RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.
  • Morello: Acid cherries that are perfect for cooking. RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.
  • Nabella: Acid cherries that are great for jams, pies, and liqueurs.
  • Sasha: Dark red cherries that are sweet and juicy. Heavy cropping.
  • Stardust Coveu: Very sweet white cherries. Great flavour and firmness.
  • Stella: Large blood-red fruit. Very juicy and sweet tasting. Highly productive, but sensitive to cold. RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.
  • Summer Sun: Great tasting dark red fruit. Extremely hardy and RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.  
  • Sunburst: Very productive with large, firm fruit.
  • Sweetheart: Excellent flavour red cherries that are best eaten straight off the tree.
  • Van: Reddish black, sweet cherries. Superb flavour.


  • Bigarreau Napoleon: Another “white” cherry with pale golden white flesh. Firm-fleshed with a sweet tangy taste.
  • Burlat: Dark, red sweet cherries. Easy to grow.
  • Colney: Large burgundy coloured fruit. Resistant to bacterial canker and RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.
  • Karina: Hard and tasty. Perfect with meringue and ice-cream. Not widely available in the UK. .
  • Kordia:Glossy, black and large fruit. Resistant to cracking.
  • Merton Glory: Large, red fruit flushed with white. Very tasty but not suitable for storage.
  • Morello: Acid cherries that are perfect for cooking. RHS Award of Garden Merit awardee.
  • Regina: Mild and sweet fruit and resistant to cracking. Balanced flavour.
  • Sylvia: Compact with upright growth. Similar taste to Stella.
  • White Heart: Large yellow-red fruit. Good resistant to bacterial canker.

Jorge at PrimroseJorge works in the Primrose marketing team. He is an avid reader, although struggles to stick to one topic!

His ideal afternoon would involve a long walk, before settling down for scones.

Jorge is a journeyman gardener with experience in growing crops.

See all of Jorge’s posts.